Caring for Leather Garments

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For many of us, cleaning leather garments is still one of life's mysteries. So here's a guide that will help you keep your "rawhide" looking good.

The Four Types of Leather

Protected: These are the toughest and most practical leathers. The leather is finished with pigments on the surface. You can restore the color on scratches.

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Aniline: This type of leather (also called natural, naked or unprotected) is colored with a transparent dye so that the grain shows through. It has no protective coating though you can spray it with water repellant.
Nubuck: This is an aniline leather that has been brushed to create a soft velvety surface. It's very absorbent and will stain easily, although some Nubucks, such as distressed or bomber, have waxed surfaces that offer some protection.
Suede: Suede is actually the flesh side of a piece of leather. But it looks like Nubuck and needs similar care. You can also protect suedes and Nubucks with a water repellant spray, but it may darken the color.

Cleaning Leather Clothing and Handbags

Always follow the cleaning instructions on the garment.

Finished leather: Remove surface dirt and stains by rubbing with a damp sponge. If that doesn't work, apply a little saddle soap or diluted liquid detergent and rub again.

Unfinished leather: These garments will spot if wet. Some soils can be removed by wiping with a clean, dry cloth. Rub off tougher stains with a suede brush or ultra-fine sandpaper. To remove scratches and to keep the leather supple, buff the item with a soft cloth or with leather moisturizer.

Leather rarely needs to be professionally cleaned. That's good because professional cleaning is expensive and it may fade the color. If you must send a leather garment to the cleaners, find a cleaner who specializes in leather. And if you have a two-piece outfit, send both pieces so the color stays consistent.

Leather Shoes

The best way to deal with stains on shoes? Prevent them, say the experts at the Stuart Weitzman shoe boutique in New York City. Pick up a can of weatherproofing spray (Avoid silicone sprays. They don't allow leather to breathe and can dry it out. Use a good leather protector instead. These may contain silicone, but in small quantities - so the leather is protected, but not smothered) and mist it over the entire shoe surface every few weeks. This will keep you from heartbreak over your favorite pair.

To clean leather shoes and boots, pick up a tub of shoe cleaner. Start with a dry shoe, then dab on leather cleaner with a soft cloth, allowing it to soak into the shoe. Then rub or soft-brush gently, and let dry at least a couple of hours, preferably overnight. No-nos include: never use shoe cleaner/polish on any leather you will be wearing shortly after cleaning. It can and probably will rub off your handbag or jacket and onto your dress, hands, your friend's furniture. Not good.

Head off salt stains on leather shoes and boots by coating the edges where top meets sole with a thin layer petroleum jelly before you go out in to the snow.

Storage

Store leather garments on shaped or padded hangers in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. Cover them with cloth instead of plastic so the garment can breathe; otherwise it might mildew. Shoes and boots should be kept in shoe boxes or other protective containers. This keeps the shoes clean, and clean shoes last longer.

Wrinkles

If the wrinkles in your garment don't hang out, try steaming them out. Hang the garment in the bathroom while you shower. If you still have wrinkles, you can iron the garment with the iron on the lowest setting (no steam!). Place brown paper between the iron and the garment to protect it.

Drying

Avoid getting leather garments wet. If a garment does get wet, blot the excess gently with a towel. Then dry it flat, away from direct heat. Heat will dry out its natural oils and make the leather hard and cracked.